Not All Roses are the Same… says Epine De Rose

Often times in any business or industry, a trend can be established when something seems to take hold of the audience that the industry serves. Whether it’s in fashion or film, technology or music, cuisine or politics; there are certain things or phrases that seem to pop up in every product or material that comes out of that industry. Over the past several years, rose has been an ingredient that has found its way all over the fragrance world. What was once thought to be a note simply for the floral fragrances of yesteryear, has now become a signature part of so many different fragrances across many houses and in many women, men and unisex fragrances. As early as twenty years ago, you wouldn’t find any floral notes in men’s fragrances, let alone the note of rose. As time has evolved and what is considered masculine is being redefined, you have perfumers all over the world incorporating rose in a number of ways into feminine and masculine fragrances. From Jo Malone, MFK, Gucci and Byredo to Kilian, Dior, Frederic Malle and Tom Ford, you can find a fragrance with rose in it at any counter. How do you reimagine an ingredient that everyone else has used over and over again? Well, it takes a special master perfumer to rethink or recreate a new way to experience a familiar scent, and that’s what Alberto Morillas has done with Epine De Rose.

Alberto Morillas is a perfumer that I have written about before. He was the creator of the Palissandre D’or fragrance for Aedes Perfumery. Well, in 1999, Alberto Morillas made a decision after working in the industry for nearly three decades to create his own fragrance house called Mizensir. This was Alberto’s opportunity to allow his creativity and inspiration to express itself freely. WIth over forty years of experience and with incredible, massively successful creations such as CK One for Calvin Klein, Aqua di Gio for Women by Giorgio Armani, and Panthere de Cartier for Cartier, creating a company for himself to fully explore his creativity on his own terms was bound to foster even more iconic fragrances. The one thing about the iconic CK One that appealed to almost everyone who came across it was its incredible balance and palatable composition. It was a fragrance that wasn’t too strong, or wasn’t too light. It was something that regardless of the person wearing it, it was very distinctive and easy to the noise. It was a fragrance that could be worn at any time, any season, and at any occasion. You could never go wrong wearing it and it became a go-to for people of all ages and walks of life to wear. The ambiguity of its wearability skyrocketed the fragrance to a place that will stand in history as one of the greatest fragrances ever created.

I was on a trip to New York and of course, I decided to look up some boutiques to find fragrances. I did a bit of research and asking around, and I discovered the Mizensir boutique had just opened only a few months before my trip. I was excited to go in and try some of the fragrances, especially since I had tested a couple prior to my trip. As I walked in, I was greeted by Danny and he went through the different fragrances, and I settled on this amazing fragrance called Épine De Rose. The word “épine” can be translated into American English as thorn or spine. The top notes of this fragrance are mandarin, agarwood and ginger; the heart notes are Bulgarian rose, pink pepper, black pepper; and the base notes are cedar wood, incense and Limbanol, which is a very intense woody amber essence. A rose scent isn’t just about putting a bunch of rose in a bottle and calling it a rose fragrance. Rose has to be an ingredient that is properly executed, or it can come off too floral or sometimes have an metallic after note. What’s amazing about Alberto’s execution is, he chose to take a different inspiration point, differing from the pedal of the flower and reimagine the scent from the root. This not only makes the scent not as overly floral, but it yields the same universal appeal similar to what CK One had, where anyone can wear this regardless of classification. 

The scent is delicate, but it’s not quiet. The top notes are very front and center when you open the bottle. The combination of the mandarin and ginger give this scent a bit of a punch without irritating your noise. I love the dry down of the pink and black pepper, to have a balance of spice to counterbalance the rose that is used is such a creative and smart use of the rose. To have that heart sit on a classic base of cedar and amber, it really allows the rose to shine in a way that is classic and distinctive, and yet appeal to almost anyone who smells it. That’s the beauty of Alberto noise and creativity, he’s able to understand to compose ingredients that are palatable to anyone, while not being muted by everyone. I love wearing this fragrance in the evening at events where there multiple people because of its draw to so many, but also because it’s a fragrance that is distinctive and it allows me to stand out amongst the crowd. If you have the opportunity to grab this fragrance, please do so… you won’t regret it.

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