Palissandre D’or… A Rosewood by Any Other Name, Wouldn’t Be the Same

One of the amazing things about fragrance, especially in the niche fragrance world, is the element of discovery. It is a world where there never seems to be a point where you know everything that it is out there. There are so many independent and niche perfumers that hidden is small cities and large metropolitans across the world that you never seem to come to the end of the discovery of new scents. What’s also amazing is when you can find a shop who knows and understands these fragrances, the artists behind them and the stories in which they are derived from. In any passion you are involved in, it becomes less and less about the social capital of the passion and more about the essence and craft involved in it. You end up forming a community among those who share the same passion, and that community will also become a safe space for exploration, discovery and freedom to fully immerse yourself into where your heart flutters and your mind runs free.

I was having my normal conversation with my friend, who is also my self-assigned sales rep at the local store where I grab my fragrances and do a bit of discovery, and I was telling them that I was traveling to New York for an extended weekend trip for friends. In that conversation, I was informed that there was a small shop in New York that was amazing and they specialized in niche, independent fragrance houses that were not mainstream. Of course, that sent my internal happy meter through the roof. When I landed in New York, I made sure to put time on my schedule to visit that store, and I will never regret it. Aedes Perfumery is a wonderful perfume boutique on the Lower East Side of New York City, nestled right on Orchard St. and in a way could be described as unassuming at first glance. When you walk into the boutique, you are transformed into a different era in time, when warm tones on the walls, regal shelves that are filled with fragrances, candles, and much more. It truly feels like you are walking into a mid-century home or parlor, where the ceilings are low, there are plants and different textures, and the aroma of the space is a fragrance enthusiast dream. It is very comfy, cozy space and the sales representative was incredibly knowledgeable and thoughtful. We ended up having an hour conversation, we explored the different brands that were located in the boutique, to the history of the owners and their journey through the fragrance industry as executives and how the opened Aedes Perfumery. After minutes of an amazing fragrance conversation, the boutique executive pointed me towards the relaunch Aedes De Venustas line, the boutique’s own fragrance line and I tested many of the scents they had. After some deliberation, I landed on Palissandre D’or…

I am not much of a woodsy fanatic, but it was hard to deny composition of this fragrance, especially on the initial and dry down of the aroma. The Aedes De Venustas line is one that is an Eau De Parfum line with 80% volume, but is also incense based. So when you come across a fragrance titled Palissandre D’or, where ‘palissandre’ is the French word for ‘rosewood’, there is an interesting story and complexity to the fragrance that drew my attention and attraction to it. This fragrance was crafted by perfumer Alberto Morillas, one of the world’s most renowned perfumers born in Seville, Spain. He has created some of the most iconic fragrances in the world, including Calvin Klein’s CK One, Giorgio Armani Acqua di Giò for women and Marc Jacobs Daisy, just a few of more than seven thousand fragrances he has worked on. The notes of this fragrance are sandalwood, Virginian, Chinese & Alaskan cedar, coriander, copahu, ambrette, pink pepper, patchouli, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Alberto Morillas is quoted with describing the fragrance as “a ‘monochrome’ by its color and its density with a strong signature and very special, bold ingredients,” which you can find in the fragrance description on Aedes Perfumery website.

There is a particular type of rosewood called ‘palisander’ that has its origins in India, which was the inspiration for this fragrance. Yet, when you look at the ingredients of the fragrance, you don’t find rosewood in there. That is something that I love about fragrance, when you have artists who can use a variety of different ingredients that can resemble or be inspired by the scent of another material. This fragrance has a very creamy, rich body to it. One of the ingredients that hits you immediately is the ambrette and coriander. Ambrette is an an aromatic medicinal plant, also known as musk mallow, is native to India. The beauty of the fragrance is that it is complex, but it’s not something that seems awkward or disturbing to the noise. None of the ingredients seem heavy or off-putting as they show up throughout the day. Although centered around the inspiration of rosewood, this fragrance isn’t particularly stringent on being “woodsy”. It’s a very soothing, easy to the smell of wood; very warm and inviting due to the nutmeg and cinnamon that is in the fragrance. This could be something that’s reserved for the fall or winter, but I’d say you can wear this in easy cozy environment, regardless of the season. Although the notes may be bold in nature, the overall aromatic disposition will slowly envelope you and anyone near who detects it. 

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